What's the Difference?

Naturally, one would expect there to be many differences between life in a small Turkish town and one in Canada. As winter approaches, my thoughts have roamed towards staying warm here in the high Anatolian plateau. At home in Gibsons, I’d be thinking of which of my abundant clothes to wear to keep out the damp fall chill. Here in Avanos, I’m contemplating how much blanket-weight I can stand on my bed at night to stay warm and still be able to turn over. And I’m timing my showers in the unheated bathroom so I can warm myself afterwards in the still-strong sun. When the water from the ‘cold’ tap actually feels pleasantly warm on your hands in the morning…. well…. you know winter is coming.

And, regardless of the seasons, there are the practicalities of everyday life…..

As I browsed Facebook yesterday, I came across a notice from the Town of Gibsons advising of water works on Gibsons Way, letting people know that there would be interruptions in their water supply.  “How clever”, I thought, “to post such a thing on social media.” People in the affected area probably also received little printed information sheets in the mail or to their doors. Imagine the uproar if the water went off without notice!

This morning, I woke with a start to the sound of a tractor outside my window. First thought: “Gee, those garbage men are early today….”  Next, the unmistakable tinkle of cobblestones being stacked neatly. Then the house shook (which isn’t easy to do: it’s a 300 year old stone house built into the mountainside) with the thudding of a backhoe. Next thought: “Oh RATS! I bet there’s no water!!”  Sure enough, the tap runs dry. So no shower this morning. Guess I have to wait. But how long?  Anybody’s guess.  You’ll certainly never get a straight answer out of the workmen: “Inshallah, soon,” would be the likely response.  So no one bothers to ask. Good thing we have a stash of filled 10-litre water bottles under the sink in the (also unheated) kitchen.

There’s a good deal of chatter in the street at the moment. Everyone seems to be working.  Inshallah, I’ll have my shower before the sun sets. Unless it clouds over first....

Kurban Bayramı

The 3-4 day holiday of Kurban Bayramı (Festival of Sacrifice) begins about 70 days after the end of Ramazan. A religious-based festival commemorating the sacrifice to God by Abraham (Ibrahim) of a ram in place of his son, it is meant to be a time of sharing. Strictly speaking, it offers the supreme opportunity for Muslims to practise charity, one of the five pillars of Islam.

Ibrahim’s sacrifice is reenacted through slaughtering of meat animals for sharing amongst friends, family, and the poor. Nowadays, city-dwellers pay a fee to abattoirs to have meat prepared in their name for distribution. Because Avanos is a relatively rural community, there is still apparently some local ‘sacrificing’ that goes on, as evidenced by our terrier bringing home a stomach the other day, and a cow’s foot this afternoon: dogs love Kurban Bayramı.

Practising Muslims begin the first day of Kurban Bayramı with a visit to the Mosque. Muslim or not, everyone dons their best clothes and spends the rest of the holidays visiting friends and family, paying particular tribute to the elder generations. New outfits for children mean that their old clothes can be given to the poor.

Here in the clay studio, neighbourhood children come calling, wishing us Happy Bayram, showing us respect by a kiss on the right hand before touching it to their foreheads. In return, they receive a sweet, a kiss, and a “Happy Bayram”. The days & evenings are an endless stream of visitors, allowing us little time for working.

Coupled with Bayram is a 2-day national Turkish holiday.  This means all government offices are closed for the entire week.  Roads are jammed with travellers; airline tickets, bus tickets, and  hotel rooms are as scarce as hens’ teeth. But business is brisk for the many shopkeepers here who cater to tourists. Friends & acquaintances are among the best customers. It’s a time for tea & sweets and autumn garden bounty, shared in the warmth of good company.

Next week, the nation gets back to work. And I can finally get that letter mailed at the post office.

Hot-air balloons rise at dawn

A Brief Visitor

I am Kömür. I’m as black as the coal for which I’m named, and my big eyes are a piercing yellow. I’m a bit small for my age of 4 months, being a street cat; & I’m thin. But I think fast on my feet, and I can run and hide from even the biggest dogs.

A couple of days ago, while running to hide in the gravevines, I slipped and fell from the 5 metre high garden wall, landing awkwardly on the street below. I crawled under a nearby car to recover. When the car moved away, I was out in the open and found I couldn’t stand. The curious dogs wanted to play with me; but I couldn’t run away.  I hurt so much! And I was paralyzed with fear!

The lady found me, hissing and yowling to save myself. She wrapped me in a cozy sweater and took me to the vet, who said I was not broken and would probably be ok in a day or two.  I didn’t feel ok.  I wasn’t broken on the outside; but my insides felt broken. And I was so afraid! But the nice lady took me home and got me a sandbox, a soft pillow, and some warm milk. I couldn’t drink the milk, but I have been able to crawl to the window, where I can see outside and let the morning sun warm me.  But I am growing very weak and still can’t eat anything.

Tonight, the lady has brought me into the toasty warm studio, wrapped in my sweater and nestled in my basket on my pillow, so I can be in company and be soothed by the friendly voices of the other people. It feels nice. Another vet has come to see me.  He and the lady have fed me warm milk in an eyedropper, but it’s hard for me to swallow, and I don’t think it is helping, I’m glad to be warm, with someone stroking me. But my insides are broken: I am dying.

W buried Kömür in an abandoned walled garden later in the evening. He was with us for only a couple of days of his short life. Even after such a short time, I find myself missing his presence. During the night I remind myself that there is no need to go check on him. The warm sweater is washed and ready for another homeless visitor. Maybe the next one can stay longer.

NEIGHBOURHOOD ICON

The definitive harbinger of Spring on my street corner is this gigantic flowering cherry tree.

Its voluptuous deep pink double blossoms have ushered in the warm months for as long as I've lived here, and longer before that. Before I had the good fortune to occupy this home, I passed this beauty with my young son (now 28 years old) on the way to playschool twice a week; and always we were moved by its beauty. Now, neighbours and visitors alike stop to stare, snap photos, and brush up against the soft petals. . . . . .

KYBELE, QUEEN OF EVERYTHING

Kybele (kee-bày-lay – English equivalent to Sybil)

Kybele is all about woman. She is the mother of Earth, but also born of Earth. Strength, wisdom, fertility, continuity, nurturing, regeneration, family.

My introduction to Kybele was in Ankara’s Museum of Anatolian Civilizations – the national archeological & anthropological museum of Turkey. Here sits a 2-foot tall ceramic rendition of the Queen of Everything. She’s a very impressive figure: matronly, regal, voluptuous, seated on her throne flanked by lions – an 8-thousand year old ceramic embodiment of all things powerful, in feminine form. No wonder she is omnipresent in Anatolian/Turkish art & culture.

IT'S SPRING!!

What better time to begin my blogging than Springtime?
It's finally here!  After a dreary not-so-cold winter of rain, rain, and more rain, the air is warming, hummingbirds are fighting ruthlessly over the feeder, blossoms are popping everywhere, and the breezes are wafting fragrances of hyacinths, daffodils, violets, and daphne throughout my little piece of Heaven here on BC's Sunshine Coast.
It's the best time to pull unwanted buttercups, fireweed, dandelions, and other seedy intruders, since I can still see the soil clearly between the emerging new growth of resident plants. And I can spend time outdoors without freezing.

The Journey Begins

Since September, 2001, right after "911", I have journeyed annually to Turkey.  Known over the ages as "The East of the West and the West of the East", this fascinating country lives up to its title.  An intriguing combination of the ancient & the modern, the conservative & the flamboyant, Turkey is a nation of fiercely independent, proud, determined, & honourable people who value their history & traditions.
For the sake of continuity, I begin this blog with the first post from my last visit to Turkey, in 2012.....